Didn't realize I was so close...
Monday, July 9, 2012
My Radar Don't Show No Fronts
That's what a "good ol' boy" told me as he fished near Wittenberg, MO. Fishing chatter invariably involves weather prognostication. I was surprised by his sophisticated electronic forecast. Maybe I shouldn't have been given the technological turn in the "sport". I knew, however, from daily experience that were in the midst of a hot and dry stretch with more to come. High water and flood stage last year was over 40 feet. It's currently 14 feet and going down. The sand bars and wing dams are are like sentinels along the river's path protecting and directing the flow. We parted with the usual "Be safe!"
Not more than an hour later I made one of my regular over-the-shoulder glances to see if a barge was sneaking up behind me. What do you suppose I saw? Sure looked like a weather "front" to me. Angry gray and darker blue clouds were were marching across the sky and pushing me down the river. A mixture of fear and excitement quickened my paddle stroke-count. I figured I could "outrun" the rain. Yah, right! The wind picked up and with it began bathing me in a warm shower. A far cry from the precipitation back in Minnesota which chilled me to the bone. Just before I found my sand bar hotel, the storm was over. I guess the radar must have missed that one. I am glad I didn't.
Not more than an hour later I made one of my regular over-the-shoulder glances to see if a barge was sneaking up behind me. What do you suppose I saw? Sure looked like a weather "front" to me. Angry gray and darker blue clouds were were marching across the sky and pushing me down the river. A mixture of fear and excitement quickened my paddle stroke-count. I figured I could "outrun" the rain. Yah, right! The wind picked up and with it began bathing me in a warm shower. A far cry from the precipitation back in Minnesota which chilled me to the bone. Just before I found my sand bar hotel, the storm was over. I guess the radar must have missed that one. I am glad I didn't.
Friday, July 6, 2012
Shoreline
I could close my eyes (often do) and see the typical shoreline in the Lower Mississippi (south of Cairo, IL.) Natural: a tangle of trees downed and deposited and sand bars (my motel) created by wing dams and natural eddys in river bends, Army Corps of Engineers: various forms of "rip-rap" (rocks and pre-formed slabs of concrete) deposited along countless miles of river to deter erosion. All of either lines or is inside the equally countless miles of 40 foot-plus levees. Last year's 400 year flood hit 43 feet .... this year is a drought year and is at 12 feet.
Thursday, July 5, 2012
There's Nothing Down There
"There's nothing down there."
That's what Ray told me when I left the last "fuel dock" just south of St. Louis. I had heard variations on that theme from others.
Jeff told me to have at least 5 gallons of water on board south of Memphis because towns were few and far between and temperatures and humidity would soar. He was right! Others were probably referring to how the Upper Mississippi's wildlife is so abundant and its shores so scenic. The Lower Mississippi is a persistent montage of sand bars and rip-wrap levees protecting occasional hamlets and farms. My conclusion, however, is that it's simply different down here. The sand bars make for great beach camp sites. The critters may be a bit more ornery (gar, water moccasins, alligators). But the folks north AND south have been very helpful and friendly. You have met many of them on this blog. So, Ray, there's lots down here and more surprises around each bend of the river.
That's what Ray told me when I left the last "fuel dock" just south of St. Louis. I had heard variations on that theme from others.
Jeff told me to have at least 5 gallons of water on board south of Memphis because towns were few and far between and temperatures and humidity would soar. He was right! Others were probably referring to how the Upper Mississippi's wildlife is so abundant and its shores so scenic. The Lower Mississippi is a persistent montage of sand bars and rip-wrap levees protecting occasional hamlets and farms. My conclusion, however, is that it's simply different down here. The sand bars make for great beach camp sites. The critters may be a bit more ornery (gar, water moccasins, alligators). But the folks north AND south have been very helpful and friendly. You have met many of them on this blog. So, Ray, there's lots down here and more surprises around each bend of the river.
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Billy
Set record for miles (70) and hours in boat (18) to meet my nephew, Billy, in Greenville, Mississippi. He is a police investigator in Knoxville, Tennessee and has a side job mowing over 80 yards at homes that have defaulted on loans.
Southern Hospitality ... again
Another 100 degree day...needed to get off water midday...saw a rare house on bank above sandbar...said prayer I could find shade...I found Richard, Guy, and Kyle working on a friend's hunting lodge...they welcomed me with beverages/food/air conditioned comfort.
Before paddling off a few hours later, Richard took my hands and offered a sending prayer....all I could say was, "amen!"
For Mom
This pic of me and my nephew, Billy, Greenville, Mississippi, is for the sole purpose of showing her I am "Ok". Taken at 11pm after 18 hours in my boat covering nearly 70 miles. Mom, who my boat is named after (the Leila V.) will be 96 next week. Early happy birthday, mom! By the way Billy sent the same picture to his mom!
Paddle by Moonlight
To beat the heat I have been paddling EARLY....on water at 4:30 ...using headlamp and reflective jacket so barges can see me. With a full moon I can see very well and enjoy this view!
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Fish Story
Several folks who have been following the blog sent notes of appreciation for the "Fishing, Technology, and Uncle Lester" entry.
Let me add a "fish story". As I paddle the Mississippi I find myself singing a lot. Remember "Oh, what a beautiful morning!"?
Another musical I have always loved is Porgy and Bess. While the characters are a bit stereotyped, the music still moves me.
"Summer time and the livin' is easy.......fish are jumping and the cotton is high." I now understand that line "fish are jumpin'.." because they really do jump all the time and all over the river. Maybe it's because I am on the water all day and have little else to do, but here's the best part of "true story". On several occasions fish have jumped over the front of my boat and and almost jumped into my boat. My uncle Lester is smiling and nodding his head! And they do this without warning often causing a spike in my blood pressure and other near anatomical responses.
In local riverside restaurants the fish list jumps off the menu. In Minnesota, the walleye heads the list. But down in the lower Mississippi, you can choose between catfish, buffalo, and carp. Being a vegetarian I am certainly a "stranger in a strange land".
Despite her sweet intentions, I had to tell a waitress recently that "friend okra" was not the solution. Back to the "fish story". Sorry, no pictures.
Let me add a "fish story". As I paddle the Mississippi I find myself singing a lot. Remember "Oh, what a beautiful morning!"?
Another musical I have always loved is Porgy and Bess. While the characters are a bit stereotyped, the music still moves me.
"Summer time and the livin' is easy.......fish are jumping and the cotton is high." I now understand that line "fish are jumpin'.." because they really do jump all the time and all over the river. Maybe it's because I am on the water all day and have little else to do, but here's the best part of "true story". On several occasions fish have jumped over the front of my boat and and almost jumped into my boat. My uncle Lester is smiling and nodding his head! And they do this without warning often causing a spike in my blood pressure and other near anatomical responses.
In local riverside restaurants the fish list jumps off the menu. In Minnesota, the walleye heads the list. But down in the lower Mississippi, you can choose between catfish, buffalo, and carp. Being a vegetarian I am certainly a "stranger in a strange land".
Despite her sweet intentions, I had to tell a waitress recently that "friend okra" was not the solution. Back to the "fish story". Sorry, no pictures.
Friday, June 29, 2012
Helena, ARK.
Another casino, meal, friendly folks (Sam, Pauline, Christia, Rose) and security guard (Clayton). The way they get around the law which allows gambling "on the water" is to put the casino on a pond of Mississippi River water. Almost as amazing as the motorcycle I won and am finishing my pilgrimage on......NOT! Although these 100 degree days make that a tempting proposition!
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Buffet Blessings
As I came around the bend Fitzgerald's Casino called me to enjoy their buffet....
Thanks to riverboat Capt. Mark for chart advice and transport from dock to casino
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
A glimpse of glory
Kenyarda is a special education teacher who has begun a master's program...keep the dream alive!
Lower Mississippi Experience
For over a half mile a topographically accurate "river" traces the Mississippi from its various sources to the Gulf of Mexico. Not only a great learning tool, but a wonderful place to cool off on a 100 degree day.
Civil Rights Museum
A wonderfully powerful witness to many brave and faithful people. We shall overcome....someday!
Beale Street
Blues (B.B. King) to Rock (Elvis)...much better than Bourbon Street
Great trolley on Main!
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